I am a big fan of cheese. Over the years, I have tried many, and I can say that I don’t think I have met one I didn’t like. While I have enjoyed, what I would call “fancy cheeses,” these are not my go-to cheese. That honor belongs to the most controversial of cheeses, “American Cheese.” Some might roll their eyes at this, but this stuff is tasty, useful, and deserves more respect than it gets. So I thought I would take some time to share some history and evolution of this much maligned product.
When you think of American cheese, the image that often comes to mind is the individually wrapped singles—plastic encased, easily melted, but often disputed in terms of its authenticity as “cheese.” That's because these slices aren't entirely cheese; many fall under the category of "processed cheese" or "cheese food." For example, the individually wrapped Kraft Singles, contain a blend of milk, whey, milk protein concentrate, and a host of other ingredients, with less than half of it being actual cheese, legally disqualifying it from the label "cheese." Hence, the “Singles” name.
Regulated by the Standards of Identity for Dairy Products, American cheese is required to be made from specific cheeses or a blend thereof, with corresponding regulations governing its manufacturing process. It's crucial to label the product accurately, leading to terms like "pasteurized process American cheese" or "pasteurized process American cheese food" based on their cheese content and additional dairy ingredients.
The production process for American cheese differs significantly from traditional cheese-making. It takes existing cheese and, well, processes it. It involves grinding cheese, then blending it with emulsifying agents and other components. After that you heat the mixture to a specified temperature for pasteurization, all the while regulating various aspects like milk-fat percentage, moisture, pH value, and more to ensure consistency in flavor, texture, and meltability.
That might sound technical and complicated, but you can actually make processed cheese at home. The method is pretty straightforward, and with it, you can transform crumbly cheese into a format you might find more usable. Here is a great video demonstrating how it’s done.
The process is pretty interesting, but so is the history of American cheese, which is more diverse than just Kraft’s product. Before factory-produced slices became prevalent, American cheese was a blend, often combining Cheddar and Colby, designed for seamless melting and a universally appealing taste. Together they create a mild, creamy, and slightly salty taste with a medium-firm texture and a low melting point. Its characteristic yellow or white hue is frequently enhanced with annatto for color.
When you head to the deli counter and order American cheese, you will notice it looks more like a traditional cheese. There, what you get usually consists of real cheese or what's termed "Pasteurized Process cheese." This version of American cheese has fewer additives compared to their individually wrapped counterparts, resulting in a fresher, more pronounced flavor.
European colonists were making cheese in America almost as soon as they arrived, and the British colonists would introduce cheddar cheese to North America. By 1790, American-made Cheddar was being exported back to England, albeit labeled as inferior or “American cheese” by competitors, establishing the trend of skepticism toward American cheeses in the old world.
The earliest use of the term "American cheese" that I could find in print was from August 1801 in “The Evening Post.” Odds are people were already using the term colloquially earlier, but now it was in print and for better or for worse, American Cheese was on the map.
It would take about 100 years for the product to evolve into what we are more familiar with today, and its origin isn’t completely American.
The story of American cheese's evolution has some Swiss DNA. In 1911, Swiss cheese innovators Walter Gerber and Fritz Stettler experimented with Emmentaler, resulting in a cheese with an extended shelf life and a smoother texture. This is the “Pasteurized Process cheese,” I mentioned earlier. Science and technology were opening up new doors and ways of thinking about cheese.
Meanwhile, James Lewis Kraft, a Canadian immigrant to the United States, experimented with processes that led to a more conveniently distributable "warm cheese." Born in Ontario, Canada, in 1874. Kraft's journey into the cheese industry began when he moved to Chicago in the early 1900s. Initially, he worked at a cheese distribution company, where he witnessed the challenges of transporting cheese over long distances without spoilage.
Kraft became intrigued by the idea of creating a cheese product that could withstand travel without losing its quality. He experimented tirelessly with different methods of preserving and packaging cheese. His breakthrough, which he patented in 1916, came in perfecting a process that prevented cheese from spoiling while also making it easier to distribute.
Kraft's innovation involved the incorporation of emulsifying salts, which helped maintain the cheese's freshness and enhanced its melting properties. This development led to the creation of a cheese that could be easily sliced, packaged, and distributed across vast distances without compromising its taste or texture.
In the first half of the 20th century, Kraft and other American cheeses started to gain popularity. It would play an important role in feeding troops, notably during WWI and WWII. It was perfect, offering convenience, longevity, and a taste of home for troops. When they came home, they were even more hungry for it and wanted more.
While Kraft is most famous for its American variety, they actually applied their process to other cheeses, as you will see in this commercial from the late 1950s.
And it was even sold overseas. This commercial tries to lean into the “hip” lingo of the 60s.
Today, things are different. American cheese culture has expanded, embracing a variety of cheeses that were once viewed as beyond the reach of American cheese makers. A growing emphasis on transparent ingredients a backlash against "processed" foods, has led to a shift in consumer preferences towards a wider range of cheeses. Bright orange processed options have given way to more health-conscious or artisanal choices for a discerning consumer base.
Still, American cheese holds a special place in many hearts, despite the vast array of cheese options available. Its melt-in-your-mouth quality transforms the simplest dishes into comforting classics, whether it's the gooey goodness of a grilled cheese sandwich or the familiar taste atop a juicy burger. For me, its mild yet flavorful profile brings back memories of childhood lunches and family gatherings, adding a touch of nostalgia to every bite. Its reliability and versatility make it a go-to choice for quick snacks or hearty meals, a remarkable cheese (or cheese product) that's both familiar and deeply satisfying in its simplicity (and complexity).
If I can’t convince you to give American Cheese another shot, maybe the Retroist’s new American Cheese Mascot, Yankee Cheeser, can. His favorite colors, as you might guess, are Red, White & Bleu.
I love Yankee Cheeser and I love American cheese. Nothing's better on a burger or wrapped around a hotdog at a summer barbecue by the pool. I use Velveeta on my grilled cheese sandwiches. Is that a type of American cheese?
Fascinating history about American cheese! (btw: do you think Yankee Cheeser would be open to coming over to my house the next 4th of July. We're wanting to grill some cheese-, uh, hamburgers ...)